The Proper Care of Gems and Jewelry
I adore gems and jewelry. In my fantasy world, any gemstone could be set in any setting and remain pristine for all eternity. Sadly, reality has other ideas. So, how do we ensure that our beloved jewelry has the longest life possible?
Understanding gemstone durability
Many of you have heard about how diamond is the hardest gemstone, making it the best choice for important jewelry pieces like engagement rings. However, there are actually three main factors that determine how durable a gemstone is: hardness, toughness, and stability.
Hardness: Hardness refers to a gem's ability to resist scratches and abrasions. The Mohs Hardness Scale rates gems based on their hardness on a scale of 1 to 10. A gemstone is able to scratch any gem below it on the scale as well as itself. However, to make things a little complicated, the scale is not truly linear. Diamond, which sits at the top of the list at 10, is actually nearly four times harder than the next closest natural gemstone, corundum (sapphire and ruby).
How should we consider hardness when purchasing and wearing jewelry? Keep in mind hardness when deciding what type of jewelry to set a gemstone in. Rings and bracelets are more likely to receive incidental damage from everyday activities, so avoid setting softer gems in pieces that you wear often. If your stone is below an 8 on the scale, it might be better to set it as a necklace or in earrings. If you like to layer or stack, make sure you don't have gemstones rubbing against one another. Also, we tend to think of diamond as indestructible, but remember that a diamond can (and will) scratch another diamond.
Toughness: Often overlooked, toughness is extremely important to the durability of a gemstone. Toughness refers to the ability of a gem to resist breaking and chipping. Diamond may be the hardest gemstone, but it is not particularly tough. If you hit it at the right angle, a diamond can completely cleave in two. In contrast, the much softer jade is exceptionally tough, which is why it is a popular choice for bangle bracelets.
I recommend that you remove any jewelry before performing a more hands-on or rigorous activity. Have a ring holder nearby and take off that engagement ring before washing the dishes, doing laundry, or building that boat with your bare hands. Also, be aware of any inclusions or existing damage on a stone. Feathers, cavities, and other fractures are a weak point on a stone and require extra protection. If you notice new or growing damage, take your jewelry to a trusted jeweler ASAP.
Stability: Stability is the measure of how well a gemstone holds up to heat, chemicals, humidity and light. Before deciding on a gemstone, do some research on its properties and any inclusions it might have. Emeralds, for example, are typically fracture-filled with an oil or resin to improve their appearance and clarity. Excessive heat can melt that filling and further damage the gemstone, so emeralds and other fracture-filled gems should never be placed in an ultrasonic cleaner (or even a shower, for that matter). Pearls, on the other hand, can easily be damaged by everyday chemicals like perfumes and hand lotion, so they should always be removed before handling anything harsher than gentle soap and warm water. Opals are also a delicate gem, and exposure to heat or arid conditions can dry it out and lead to crazing. Even light can permanently alter a gemstone; some types of kunzite (the pink variety of spodumene) will lose their color after only a few minutes in the sun.
Whenever you are performing an activity that might damage your gemstone, it is always better to remove it. No matter how glamorous you are, you don't need to wear your jewelry while bathing or washing dishes! When you aren't wearing them, keep your jewels in a safe place away from sunlight or excessive heat. If you need to clean your jewelry at home, here is a handy guide that covers many of the most common gemstones in jewelry. If you are uncertain about how your gemstone should be cleaned, take it to a trusted local jeweler and ask! Many are happy to provide cleaning services free of charge while you look around the shop.
Settings
Just because a store or manufacturer offers a particular mounting, it does not mean that it is a durable option. The type of metal, style of jewelry, and setting method all contribute to the lifespan of your piece.
Metal: Each metal has its own unique characteristics to take into consideration before purchasing a piece of jewelry.
Platinum is a very strong material, which means it can be used for more delicate or intricate settings. It can be scratched, but will not lose metal and can be polished back to a high shine.
Gold is softer than platinum and more malleable. Gold in jewelry is typically an alloy, with 10k, 14k, and 18k being the most commonly offered in the United States. 24k represents pure gold, and the higher the actual gold content is the softer the metal is. Most white gold gets its color from rhodium plating, which will wear off over time and need to be re-plated.
Silver is an affordable option for jewelry, but it is prone to scratching and bending. Also, sterling silver will tarnish, but a silver cleaning cloth or special cleaning agent will remove the layer of tarnish.
Style: In my many years in the jewelry industry, I've seen quite a few jewelry trends that have given me heart palpitations. Here are a few key points to keep in mind when selecting your style.
The higher a gem is set, the more likely it is to get damaged. Your cathedral-style engagement ring may be stunning, but don't be surprised if you knock it against every door, cabinet, and fixture around.
Thin bands may be trendy, but they aren't ideal for daily wear. The same can be said for dainty chains or delicate earring posts. Everyday wear and tear and common household chemicals will weaken the already thin setting and lead to warping or breaks.
If you plan on wearing your wedding and engagement rings together, consider soldering the two together or getting a spacer band. Otherwise, your wedding band and engagement ring will rub against one another and wear away the metal and/or damage any gemstones.
These days, hidden halos and peek-a-boo diamonds are all the rage. Just remember that adding gems to structural parts of your jewelry can weaken it. Diamond-studded prongs won't hold up as well over time as solid gold ones.
Setting Method: How you set your gems is a key factor in determining the lifespan of a piece of jewelry. Prongs need to be substantial and properly notched. While three or four prongs are fairly standard on the market, more prongs is almost always better. If one prong is damaged on a three-prong setting, the stone will probably fall out. However, losing one prong on a six-prong setting is far less catastrophic. Prongs can also help protect delicate points on stones, and a v-prong is a great way to prevent chipping the points of marquise, pear, and heart shapes. Popular styles like pavé bands attempt to use the least amount of metal possible to emphasize the gems. But tiny prongs and bead settings are less sturdy, and stones along the side or bottom of a band are more prone to damage.
Pick a setting that suits your gem and lifestyle needs. Bezels can help protect softer stones from damage. Baskets provide additional support to the setting's prongs. Peg heads have a thin peg on the bottom where it attaches to the band, which can create a weak point on the setting. Ask your jeweler about what setting styles are the most durable beforehand!
Maintaining your gems and jewelry
Here are some general tips for maintaining any jewelry you own.
Have your jewelry checked by a trusted jeweler regularly. For pieces you wear less often, you can probably get away with getting it examined every year or two. Everyday pieces like engagement rings, however, should be checked every six months. Many local jewelers will clean your jewelry and do a quick examination of the setting while you wait. A trained eye will be able to notice when a prong is starting to wear away or point out when a shank is thinning before a piece is irreparably damaged or a stone is lost. If you notice something is wrong or troubling about your jewelry, don't wait! Go to your jeweler as soon as possible so it doesn't potentially worsen. It isn't uncommon for small accent stones to fall out over time, but regular check-ups can help prevent this from happening.
Remove your jewelry whenever you are performing a task that could lead to damage. Cleaning, showering, sleeping, gardening, and swimming don't require accessories, I promise. Also, have safe places to hold your jewels like ring holders or jewelry dishes so they don't get lost or broken when you are trying to protect them!
Store each piece of jewelry separately. Chains have an uncanny ability to get twisted and knotted (not unlike headphone cables), so hang them individually. Stones can scratch each other or wear away metal, so don't toss your jewels into a pile and call it a day.
A word from the SPG crew
We want everyone's jewelry to live long and prosper. It's important to understand that showering and sleeping in jewelry is hard on it. Maybe not as hard as gardening or weightlifting in it, but hard. If you lose a piece of melee, we'll help replace it for you but we also ask that you treat your jewelry like....well... something precious.
And if you’d like something that can better withstand the challenges of daily life, we can work with you to suggest more durable options. Sometimes we make mistakes, and sometimes the jewelers we work with make mistakes, and we'll fix those at our cost.
